sunrise in the Dolomites. August, Saturday 10th

Morning is due to all —

To some — the Night —

To an imperial few —

The Auroral light.

{Emily Dickinson}

Malga Preghena di Sotto, Val di Non. h 5.30 AM

i am an earlybird. i love the morning light, the silence, the chill, the expectations, to peacefully plan my day sipping coffee on the couch. but i usually don't get up so early to see the sun rise. i did it in a cold and clear August morning, after a stormy night, and i saw the mountains waking up with me.

our alarm clock rang at five, it was still dark, too dark for pictures, we had a quick sip of coffee and run out to see the cows, who were loudly coming back from the pastures for the morning milking.
where and why did i do that?

we were hosted at Malga Preghena, in Trentino Alto Adige region. cows usually spend the summer in the mountain pastures, from the end of may to the end of september. during these months, the herders live in a mountain hut with a stable and a dairy. this place it's called malga. in the past, a malga's only purpose was to be a place where a family and their cows live, but now most of them are also a good place to eat and buy fresh products.

this summer, some malghe in Trentino offered the possibility to spend the night there, wake up with the family and watch their daily work. a chance to get closer to a lesser known reality. this project was called albe in malga: sunrise in malga.
this was not my first malga experience, but i had the chance to get a better look to the hard work of the family that runs the place.

oh, and the golden light that slowly came from the surrounding mountains to reach us? totally made ​​me forget the ungodly hour at which we woke up. (together with the crazy delicious breakfast we had after the milking!)

trekking in the Langa Astigiana. June, 28-30th

if you come here often, you already know that, when i'm not riding a lambretta, i like to travel and go hiking. so i simply had to say yes when i was invited to a trekking weekend near Asti, Piemonte. 
this was my second time in Piemonte region, and i had never been to Asti or Asti province before.
i just knew it for being the land of origin of some very good wines. (another good reason to say yes, right?)

our trekking destination was Asti province's southern part, an hilly territory called Langa Astigiana. at first, when we arrived, i tought the scenery was similar to the one i'm so used to: high hills, the Alps in the background, rural architecture, small churches.
actually, i'm happy i had the chance to enjoy the journey on foot: when you walk, you see everything. there is the same difference, as between looking at the water and jumping in.

a tower in Olmo Gentile, the smallest village of Asti province

our route crossed several medieval villages. in the Langa Astigiana, villages are the tinies i've ever seen. i am a small town girl, i was born and raised in a town with 5000 inhabitants, i thought i knew something about tiny villlages! i did not. i was surprised to see municipalities with 150, 120, and even 40 inhabitants. and each one has its own symbols, local products, patron saint, secret stories. oh, how much i love Italy. 

five defensive towers, symbols of five villages, were our landmarks along the way. 

medieval towers of Roccaverano, Vengore, Monastero Bormida, San Giorgio Scarampi, Olmo Gentile

Roccaverano was our home base for the weekend, a village dotted with stone houses and farms. 
we tasted goats milk cheese and hazelnuts that are the best products of the local gastronomy. i liked the hazelnuts cake but i was addicted to the goats robiola, a delicious cheese that is Roccaverano's feather on the cap. 

in two days we walked for about 34 km: meeting the locals, constantly picking cherries from the trees, making long stops to see the frescoes in a church or to climb a tower.

frescoes in San Giovanni churc (XI sec.), Roccaverano

a couple picking cherries

stone houses in Mombaldone

Lucia, travelling companion

a robiola di Roccaverano stand

thanks Itineraria and Movimento Lento for inviting me!

goat cheese and legends. May, Saturday 25th

"behind every cheese there is a pasture of a different green under a different sky: meadows caked with salt that the tides of Normandy deposit every evening; meadows scented with aromas in the windy sunlight of Provence; there are different flocks, with their stablings and their transhumances; there are secret processes handed down over the centuries."

Italo Calvino, Mr. Palomar

nowadays, our modern palates are no longer used to the tastes of biodiversity. this is the first lesson we learned after we got off the Altopiano di Asiago, and arrived to agriturismo Al Cucco, surrounded by woods and stream waters. {if you don't remember what an agriturismo is, check this post for the definition}
when you produce non-industrial cheese, it's difficult to obtain the same taste every time, although the procedure and the doses are just the same: you can not predict what herbs or flowers the goat will eat tomorrow, or if she is going to stay in the stable because it's raining. 
for the one of us who are used to eat cheeses that have all the same taste, this could be disturbing. but it should be fascinating! when you taste a cheese, you're tasting the enviroment where the goat {or the cow}is living, the greens of the pasture, the different wind, sky, temperature, tradition. just like Calvino's quote says. 
 

chamoisee alpine goats

a blonde woman named Marianna is the landlady of agriturismo Al Cucco. she was a chemist but left her job to open this farm, raise goats and make cheese. she's not the only one who make that choice. she told us there is a small but increasing "return to the earth" that they're experiencing around there. people with good office jobs who decide to quit and follow the dream of making something grow with their hands. i think i'll do the same someday.

Marianna showed us how she makes her goat caciotta.

Marianna is a former chemist who had left her job to open an agriturismo, raise goats and produce cheese

Marianna is not just a cheese makers, she also knows a lot of local legends and old stories. while we were taking a walk in the woods, she showed us small tunnels dug into the rocks, excavated during the war and used as deposits.
then, she told us some legends about the anguane. an anguana is a fairy creature typical of the alpine mythology, related to the water, with characteristics that are partly similar to those of a nymph. 

in the Dolomites, anguane are frequently described as young women, often very attractive and able to seduce men, at other times, however, appear as half girls and half reptile or fish, capable of launching loud cries.
Marianna's story described how the anguane live near waters, and spend the nights washing and hanging white sheets to the moonlight. 
another lengend was about the salvanelli, pixies that have fun making jokes to the farmers overnight, like weaving togheter the cow's tails.

legends an old stories in the woods

out of the woods, we arrived at a semi-abandoned hamlet {in the local dialect, a contrà}. lots of rural houses have been abandoned, or, like some of them, are used as a summer house for old people who live in the city and come here to have some fresh healthy air.  

that give to those houses a melancholic look, suspended between being charming and being haunted.

{olympus om10 + fuji superia 200}

info
Agriturismo Al Cucco
loc. cucco, 2 - 36040 Valdastico (VI)
agriturismoalcucco@alice.it